4.05.2011

Lady Barbera and King Barolo: discovering some of the best crus in Piedmont by Oberto.

This was another tasting organized by the Italian Sommelier Association in Friuli Venezia Giulia. Fabio Oberto, son of Andrea, who established the winery with his name 28 years ago in La Morra (CN), was invited by the sommeliers in  Friuli to present some of his best wines, the Barbera d'Alba Giada in a mini vertical tasting of vintages 2006, 2005 and 2004, and his three flagships, the crus Barolo Vigneto Rocche 2006, the Barolo Vigneto Albarella 2006 and the Barolo Vigneto Brunate 2006.
From the left: sales agent  Oberto wines in Friuli, Maurizio Dal Pont,
Sommelier representative Ais Fvg Gianni Ottogalli and producer Fabio Oberto
While Barbera has always been traditionally  named in the feminine Italian "la Barbera" (even though its high acidity, dark color and robust personality makes it a more masculine wine),  Barolo is considered the "king" of wines, for its big powerful tannic character and for his noble origins. The history of the modern Barolo dates back to the mid 19th century, when Camillo Benso, count of Cavour, the major of Grinzane Cavour, invited the French oenologist Louis Oudart to the Barolo region in Piedmont to improve the technique of vinification of the wine Barolo, that until then was vinified in a sweet version from the grape variety Nebbiolo. Oudart made the first dry version of Barolo, which soon became the favorite red wine among the nobility of Turin and the ruling house of Savoy, thus gaining the appellation of the "wine of kings, the king of wines".  The Barolo was also recently chosen as the symbol wine of the Unification of Italy, which was celebrated on March the 17th. Today, some of the highest quality expressions of this wine lie in single vineyards located in  the five communes of the Barolo zone, that, although not officially, are considered as Barolo "crus". These are the Cannubi and Sarmazza vineyards in the commune of Barolo, the Brunate vineyard, shared with the commune of La Morra, the Cerequi and Rocche vineyards in La Morra, the Monteprivato and Villero vineyards in Castiglione Falletto, the Lazzarito and Vigna Rionda in the commune of Serralunga d'Alba and the Bussia, Ginestra and Santo Stefano di Perno vineyards in Monforte d'Alba. Although all these vineyards lie in the same territory, among the Langhe hills (CN), there are many different terroirs,  that is mesoclimate, soil types, altitudes and expositions. These elements affect the Nebbiolo grape in such different ways,  thus creating several distinct Barolo wines, with an exceptional organoleptic richness and diversity.
Oberto, who runs today a winery of 16 hectares in the commune of La Morra, is one of the lucky producers to own some vineyards, even 70 years old, in the Barolo crus.  He told us, indeed, that this commune counts 2.500 residents, 750 hectares of vineyards and 100 wineries and that the commercial value of a Barolo cru starts from 500.000 euro to a maximum of 700-800.000 euro per hectare. What nature generously gives, however, must be managed in the cellar with a wise technical knowledge.  That's what Oberto does, lying in a midway in the quarell between modernist and traditionalist Barolo producers, making long period of maceration and using both the barrique and large oak casks  for wine aging.  The "power" of the "king Barolo", according to Oberto,  is best expressed at least after 5 years of aging (the minimum required from the appellation DOCG), having a long life ahead of 20-30 years. 
Here below my tasting notes. 

Barbera d'Alba Giada 2006 Oberto
Bright lively red color. The nose reveals notes of fresh dark fruits, like blackberry, blueberry, blackcurrant and plum. There are also balsamic hints, like dark licorice and mint,  green herbaceous fragrances, scents of mineral and wet soil (humus). Very fresh taste (high in acidity), the fruits perceived on the nose continue in the mouth, nice long finish of bitter licorice. Quite smooth with a predominance of  harsh parts. Very young.

Barbera d'Alba Giada 2005 Oberto
The color is still bright red and lively, a little more evolved. On the nose the fruits are riper,  there is some cherry too. It is still fresh, but more complex.  There are notes of licorice root, tobacco, moss and mushrooms and a balsamic mint hint. After resting in the glass it develops notes of coffee and animal. The taste is fresh and high in alcohol, smoother than the 2005. More ready, again a very nice harmony nose-mouth. 

Barbera d'Alba Giada 2004 Oberto
Again a bright and lively red color. The nose is more evolved and complex. Notes of dark riper fruits, plum jam, rhubarb, spices, balsamic. After resting in the glass it develops notes of coffee, toffee and animal. Fresh taste, warm in alcohol, smooth, mineral. The sip is richer and wider with a very long finish. 

Barolo Vigneto Albarella 2006 Oberto  
The color is light red with a transparency typical of the grape variety. The nose is fresh, very complex.  Spicy notes of nutmeg, star anise and  pepper, hints of aromatic herbs like rosemary and parsley, scent of cherry under alcohol, tobacco and Indian ink. Fresh powerful sip, very tannic, with a long mineral finish. Very young.

Barolo Vigneto Brunate 2006 Oberto
The color is light red with a transparency typical of the grape variety. The nose reveals a rich complexity. Notes of cherry under alcohol, Indian Ink, rhubarb jam, candied bitter orange peel, licorice root, raw meat, coffee, walnut liqueur, spices like vanilla and star anise, bitter chocolate and tobacco. The sip is smoother, even though still fresh and tannic. Warm in alcohol and more balanced with a nice harmony nose- mouth.

Barolo Vigneto Rocche 2006 Oberto
The color is light red with a transparency typical of the grape variety. The nose is more intense and complex. Sweeter notes, like cinnamon, vanilla, cherry, mulled wine. Again pepper (white) and star anise, rhubarb, Indian Ink, chocolate. Some leather and mushrooms, a little truffle. The taste is much wider and smoother with more rounded tannins. More mineral. Great extract and a very long finish. 

4.01.2011

The "philosophy" of Stefano Chioccioli, Italian great wine maker

As a sommelier I often follow the events organized by the Italian Sommelier Association in my region, Friuli Venezia Giulia (AIS Fvg). Stefano Chioccioli, one of the most acclaimed Italian oenologist was recently guest of the association in order to  present some of the wines that bare his signature. Chioccioli is in the world of wine from over 25 years. After graduating in Agricolture Science in 1984, he obtained the title of  agronomist and oenologist and took his first steps at the famous winery Ruffino in the Chianti area (Tuscany) with managerial duties from 1985 to 1992.  He has then established his own company, Stefano Chioccioli Srl, and now works as viticulture-wine consultant for several wineries in Italy, in France, Switzerland and Hungary.  Thanks to his "touch" the wines he follows obtain each year important reviews from the wine experts all over the world. This event was than an occasion to discover what is Chioccioli's wine secret.
From the left: wine producer Andrea Felluga, Stefano Chioccioli, Sommeliers
representatives AIS Fvg Gianni Ottogalli and Alessandro Pareschi
His "vision" begins in the vineyards. The main target of Chioccioli's work is to find the balance between the originality of a territory, expressed through its soil and climatic characteristics, and  technical knowledge.  The secret is working to obtain the perfect grape ripening. Especially for the reds, said Chioccioli,  the ripeness of  grapes allows to reach a good amount of anthocyanins and  the polymerization of the polyphenols. In this way, grapeseeds get brown and taste of coffee and cocoa. This is also possible reducing the yield per plant and per hectare, thus concentrating the aromas in the grapes. In the cellar a long maceration on the skins follows, and the maturation continues in barriques, which, according to Chioccioli, are necessary for  the oxigenation, thus ripening the polyphenols and  giving color, smoothness and long life to red wines.  His technique is aimed to obtain harmonious wines, extracting the sweet and fruity components of the grapes,  and not those dry and bitter.  
Both in the vineyards and in the cellar there is the maximum attention to details, and a careful selection of the grapes is made during the harvest and immediately after. Chioccioli has defined his way of working  "Goldsmith's oenology".  According to him,  however, the real challenge lies in the vineyards, where the "jewels" grow and where he works to achieve the essence of a grape variety and the best quality expression of a territory.  For this reason he decided to guide us in a tasting of nine wines mostly obtained from single grape varieties. These are the wines we tasted and the tasting notes I took. 

Sauska Tokaj 2009 (white dry wine- blend of Furmint and Sauvignon)
The color is straw yellow with green reflections, very bright. The nose is very intense, fresh, it reminds of  tropical and citrus fruits, dry aromatic herbs, like sage and rosemary, and it's also mineral. The taste is fresh, dry, smooth with a long mineral finish.

Masseria Li Veli - Montecoco Salento 2009 (red wine - Primitivo)
The color is deep red with a purplish rim. The nose is very rich with hints of macerated fruits, especially blackberry, cherry and plum, together with balsamic notes of licorice and mint. It also reminds of damp soil (humus) and, after resting in the glass, it develops hints of dark chocolate and Indian ink. The taste is wide and full bodied, smooth, dry and strong. It is a wine "to bite".

Firriato - Cava Nera Rosso Etna 2008 (red -  Nerello Mascalese 80%, Nerello Cappuccio 20%)
The color is bright, light red with purplish reflections. The nose is complex and fine, with notes of cooked tomatoes with oregano (Ottogalli), ripe red fruits (cranberry and redcurrant), elder, red onion, rhubarb, bitter licorice, aromatic herbs and dry brush. The taste is fresh with a lively tannin, pretty smooth and mineral.

Barba - Montepulciano Vigna Franca Abruzzo 2007 (red)
Dark vivid red color with a deep purple rim. The texture is thick as ink and syrup. The nose is intense and impenetrable with hints of cherries in alcohol and dark chocolate ( Ferrero "Mon chéri"), licorice and fur. The taste is full, fresh, persistent with a young vivid tannin. Harsh notes ahead, not yet balanced.

Livio Felluga - Rosso Sossò 2007 (red - blend of Refosco dal p.r., Merlot, Pignolo)
Dark full red color, purple rim. Complex, refined and  rich nose, with hints of cocoa, cherry, dark tobacco, balsamic notes of mint and licorice ( "Morositas" candy), fresh and mineral. The taste is strong, dry, very fresh and smooth, with velvety and compact tannins. Has a long life ahead.

Chateaux La Baronne - Piece de Roche Languedoc 2006 (red - Carignan)
Dark full red color with purple reflections. Very complex  nose, hints of spices (pepper), beetroot, macerated dark fruits, blackberry jam, tobacco, licorice, mineral (stone), graphite. Very fresh taste, dry, warm in alcohol, the sip is lean with sharp tannins, still  a very young wine.

Borgo La Caccia - Carmenoire Alto Mincio Rosso 2006 (red)
Dark impenetrable red color, with a purplish rim. Complex and intense on the nose, notes typical of the grape variety like "goudron" (tar),  geranium, bitter licorice, horseradish, aromatic herbs,  burned wood, humus,  raw meat,  liver, carob, and spices (clove).  The taste is dry, fresh, warm in alcohol, persistent. Vivid tannins, young.

Fanti San Filippo - Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (red - Sangiovese)
Ruby bright red color. More evolved nose, hints of plum and cherry in alcohol, cherry jam, light tobacco, coffee, cocoa, nutmeg, walnut, humus, moss. The taste is rich, full bodied, warm (alcohol), dry, with a smoother tannin. Still a very young wine. Has a long life ahead.

Scacciadiavoli - Sagrantino di Montefalco 2006 (red)
Full ruby red color with purplish reflections. The nose is complex and evolved with hints of plum jam and fruits  in alcohol, spices (nutmeg), mineral and balsamic notes, tobacco, Indian ink, coffee, cocoa, humus and  mushrooms. The sip is powerful, very tannic, astringent, full bodied and pretty smooth ( very young). Dry and warm (alcohol) with a very long finish.